Starting to Repair the N/S/F Wing

Some filler had broken away behind the top of the headlight rim so I removed the headlight today to fill the gap. Turns out quite a bit of the wing behind the light is missing and the rest held together with crumbling filler so a bit more work was needed. After a rub down the true history of the wing was revealed. The original headlamps were a dirt and moisture trap and it seems to have eaten the front of the wing away on this side. The upper edge appears to have gone completely and been replaced over the earlier years with both steel and aluminium fillets which have been pop riveted on and filled. The aluminium has reacted with the steel and dissolved leaving the bare steel to corrode and the rivets are proud on the outer side, making a wider contour to the wing that I only noticed as I rubbed it away which will have to be addressed when the wing is filled.

I duly headed to Halfords to buy a new tub of P38 body-filler, but with big gaps and little for it to cling on to I also picked up a tub of P40 fibreglass filler, which is a bit tougher and bridges holes, as well as a small sheet of aluminium mesh to help form the shape of the ring and bind everything together. First though, to combat the rust, I threw on a thick coat of Finnegan's No.1 Rust Beater and stippled as much as I could into the fissures.

The aluminium mesh fillets were then cut out and pushed into place behind the headlight surround using the tacky paint to hold them temporarily.

I then began to mix the Isopon P40 fibreglass filler. I've not used it before and it turns out to be strong stuff which sticks to itself very well and, once it starts to harden a little, becomes really easy to form. I put a quick skim over the back of the mesh to fix it into place and then added a few extra mesh fillets to reinforce the inner edge around the top of the ring, which will be holding the weight of the top of the headlight.

I used two more slugs of filler of about the same size to nicely bind everything in at the back and fill the gaps at the front, though I may have been a bit over zealous with the thickness of the repair and it'll need a good rub down, not bad for a first try. The mesh really helped to make the shape - the filler clings to it superbly.

Soon as I find time I'll be rubbing down the rest of the wing's blemishes and breaking out the P38.

Painting the Chassis

The chassis rails and centre-framework of the MGA is solid and has lasted very well during storage. In 1989, Dad painted the fore and aft ends of the chassis with black Smootherite [now just called Hammerite 'Smooth'] to protect the bits sticking out under the wheel arches while the car was being moved around and this still looks as good as new. The rest of the chassis, round the footwells and cabin haven't been painted since my parents got the car in '73 and they just used a black coach-paint, so it hasn't lasted and I thought I would make time to get the messy job of filling in the gaps out of the way while Dad and I are struggling to find time to get together on the car and sort the mechanicals...

MGs at Tatton Hall Classic Car Show 2012

Went to Tatton Hall Classic Car show on Monday, where there were a good handful of As and other MGs on display, along with a host of other classic metal ranging from the 1910s to the 90s. For the full story on Tatton Hall Classic Car show 2012 and over 120 pics go here: Tatton Hall Park Classic Car Show 2012 [on my other blog: http://retrorunabouts.blogspot.co.uk/]


This is how ours will look...

This MGA 1600 engine bay looked good with the polished rocker-cover and S.Us.

Straight-6 MGC was well sorted with shiny triple S.Us, braided pipes and high-pressure silicone hoses. White-wall tyres were a nice touch.

 1951 Nash aero car. No idea if this is the original bodywork, with the 'ute' style pickup back, but it sure looked swell and I doubt I'll see one again.

Triumph Herald converted to a 'flareside' pickup truck - awesome.

'In Vogue' flagship 2-door original Range Rover behind was also superb.